2022 JUNE: End of Cyclades.

2022-06-10

We have arrived at the port of IOS, we moor MR with the help of Georgio. In IOS, the chora (historic city center) is 3 km from the port and much higher. We decide to take the bus to go up, we will walk down. The chora is picturesque with its narrow, stepped streets. Here, no car, scooter or bicycle. The alleys intersect without much logic, until we lose the visitors that we are.

We climb to the highest point materialized by a church. From there we have an exceptional view of the port and the sunset: It’s magnificent.

The next day, a small Halbert Rassy arrives who is visibly struggling to maneuver. We are on alert because her skipper has chosen to go to our starboard side. After several attempts, Richard takes over the manoeuvre, Mercedes protects our flank with a fender and everything ends well. The occupants of this Belgian boat, Jos and Yuchen, admit their lack of experience in maneuvering their new acquisition and thank us warmly. Then we will sympathize.

We stay 3 days in IOS before being able to leave for SIKINOS, Agios Georgio, for lunch. It is a very nice little anchorage where only one MR can fit. We leave in the afternoon for FOLEGANDROS. We anchored in the bay, the quay being totally taken over by rental catamarans.

We are witnessing the rise of the almost full moon which is absolutely beautiful.

It is finally the beginning of summer and we take our first bath with great pleasure. “Canard” (the duck) returns to the water after a long winter…

In the evening we go down and take the bus there too to go up to the CHORA which is 5km from the port.

The center of the village is materialized by a small square where the local restaurants are concentrated.

It’s peaceful and you feel good there. At 9:30 sharp (with sadness) we are at the last bus stop to return to the port.

Tuesday, May 17, we continue our progression towards the West towards the island of POLIEGOS, then KIMOLOS both neighbors of MYLOS which is the largest.

POLIEGOS which is uninhabited is the smallest of the three islands. It offers boaters sublime anchorages, on turquoise sandy bottoms on its west side. But we do not stop and head for the PRASSA anchorage to the east on the island of KIMOLOS.

It is characteristic with its white cliffs, here again we anchored at a depth of 5m on hard white sand making the water clear turquoise, the water is not yet very warm but we will swim there. The only drawback in this idyllic setting is the exploitation of the nearby limestone mine and the truck that goes back and forth on the path that runs along the beach, but Mercedes takes the opportunity to capture a red moonrise.

It is Wednesday and a Meltem blow is announced. We are heading towards MILOS which remains the best sheltered port from this kind of North wind, following the coast to discover these riches.

On arrival, a yachtsman on the pontoon takes us to the moorings to help us. Richard thanks him with a big ‘THANK YOU’. This one with a reproachful air answers him: “I do not speak English and even less with an Arcachonnais”. What was our surprise to meet this Frenchman with a singing accent. Later we meet him on the pontoon and thank him again, then strike up a conversation. After a few minutes we are invited to have an aperitif.

During this invitation on board, we discover a couple from Basque-Bearnais, Michou and Christian, navigators at heart who have been sailing Turkey and Greece for more than twenty years. As the discussion progressed, it turned out that we have at least twenty sailing friends in common and that we have sailed on the same bodies of water.

We spent the three days of North wind together then we left good friends hoping to meet again at sea or on land.

The gale passed, we set off again towards FOLEGANDROS, bypassing Milos by the South.

@Klefliko Bay (thief in Greek) owes its name to its reputation as a shelter for smugglers

At FOLEGANDROS we asked for a berth to clean MR laden with sand and dust after the gale that swept MILOS.

The port manager is a particular man who makes a voucher of 7.80€ for the night and charges 20€. Also, the electricity is a real rip off. We advise sailors not to moor on this port.

It is in Santorini that we embark our first guests of the season, Manuella and Jérôme, accompanied by their two children Margot and Tristan, who came to spend five days with us.

Santorini is a totally different island from the others we have visited. It is a huge crater open to the west and north, in the center of which another smaller crater emerges. In this almost closed body of water, surrounded by high cliffs, it is almost impossible to drop anchor, since depth is important. The only places available are the buoys of the catamarans that are rented.

On Wednesday the 25th we embark our guests, excited to start our cruise. On the way to IOS the wind is weak, but MR has no qualms about moving forward with the 5kts of wind that surrounds us.

Today is a national holiday in Argentina. Mer has prepared us meat empanadas and rice pudding with Dulce de leche. Of course there was nothing left. Thank you Mer.

After dinner we are invited to have a drink on Michou and Christian’s ship, they also on their way to the East and calling at the same port.

The next day, the wind is always weak, we unfold our code 0 which makes MR and Jérôme live, who takes the helm and enjoys that moment of pleasure.

At night we anchor in ANTIKERI, a small anchorage where we are alone. Concerned, Richard asks to inspect the surroundings of the anchor to make sure that if the wind changes we won’t have any problems. Mercedes, equipped with the hand probe, travels around the bay on the paddle and Jérôme jumps into the water with the mask. Result: everything is ok, we can have a good night and above all taste the fabulous octopus prepared by Mer.

Our next stop is the island of AMORGOS. We take advantage of the good weather to have a barbecue on the beach at Ormos Egiatis accompanied by a good swim in water that is getting hotter and hotter.

We spent the first night in Aegiali. We had dinner together in the Chora that we reached after a true way of the cross.

The next day we rented a car in Katapola to discover the island and go to the Chozoviotissa monastery built on the side of the mountain whose narrow rooms (1.5m) are half inserted into the rock.

@Navire Olympia from Grand Blue film scene

The departure day of our guests arrives and we return to SANTORINI with 20 knots and then 15 knots of wind. Jérôme, at the helm of MR, is pleased to discover the speed capabilities of the CNB60 boat, even if it is easy to maneuver it in these conditions.